WHAT DOES THIS DO ?

[fatdaddy]

A sticky thread that will answer any questions you have about components and their uses.

[wanna_be_hoppin_jon]

nice idea

 am sure i got some exploded diagrams of hydro bits and piecies, i'll post em up here... when i find them buried in my computer

 

[air-one]

Nicked off LIL.

Lay it Low tech pages/links.
http://http://www.layitlow.com/tech.shtml#suspension

[sir nose]

what do electric lock offs do?what can they be used for? and how do they work?

[StyleGrace&PumpinBass]

They lock off the accumulators in a hydraulic system at the flick of a switch. With my accumulators (manual ones) I set them to quite a soft setting for driving around (speedbumps and potholes and whatnot) but need to get out, open the boot and wind all four of them in to bypass the accumulators for faster hydraulic moves (but no suspension). I want some electric ones too, but I gather they're not that cheap, does anyone know how much they are roughly? Say, for four of 'em?

Hope this helped Sir Nose?

[catboy]

Im guessing (based on what I would pay at work plus a bit) around £50 a pop, versus £15 or 20 for mechanical ones..  ontop of that you obviously need some wiring and a switch
You can get all sorts of layout valves, but you just need open/closed (normally open) 2 posn 2 way valve, but make sure its rated to the right pressure as you're gonna get some spikes with the acc's out of the system (guessing about 300bar should be more than ample though FD?)

[sir nose]

could i use them (electric lockoffs that is) to stop raising the rear on a 2pump system 1 pump each side rather than front/rear so i can raise the front independantly from the rear?

i guess lock offs just stop fluid travelling 1 way,so if i plumbed them in before the accs then locked them off,(if my thinking is correct) i would still get suspension but the rear would'nt raise when switched.

[catboy]

you wouldnt want to use accumulators for that as you would be charging it up when you wanted to operate only part of the system and that pressure has to go somewhere!..  
you could do it with lock-off's though, and thats basically the system in my old white merc and pete's 190 whcih is running a single pump..
the circuit would look something like this with one pump..



..like this with two pumps..



..and this is roughly what the installation of acc's with electrical lock off's would look like on a 2 pump system running 2 dumps and 4 lock valves..



I don't know for sure but if i was doing a 2 pump system with lock-offs for independant wheel operation I would probably split the system F/R and not S/S as the loading between the two front wheels will be similar, whereas a front vs a rear is likely to be quite different (unless you have a BMW)..  that way you can set the slow-downs to suit the "axle weights" and also your raise speeds will be more even when you raise both powered cylinders together..   ie front up will raise left and right together, whereas left up will raise the rear left first then front left due to less weight on the rear (assuming front engine)

hope that helps a bit and my little drawings don't cause too much confusion!..

ben

[catboy]

forgot to mention in the above diagrams im only using one dump per pump; you can lock out a cylinder and use the same dump for both, it will only act on the cyl where the lock valve is open

also, just for "completeness" (and because Im having a lazy friday afternoon at work )

this is the layout for a standard 2 pump system using acc's and lock outs



..and this is the layout for a standard 4 pump system using acc's and lock outs

[fatdaddy]

hmmmmmmmmmm

it's all gone a bit quiet  

300 bar would be fine.


[you realise that you now [well, one of us does anyway] have to explain what the symbols mean]

[sir nose]

to much info for my little brain to take at the mo.

[Chops]

I don't know for sure but if i was doing a 2 pump system with lock-offs for independant wheel operation I would probably split the system F/R and not S/S as the loading between the two front wheels will be similar, whereas a front vs a rear is likely to be quite different ([color=#FF0000:3f5qk7me]unless you have a BMW[/color:3f5qk7me])..  that way you can set the slow-downs to suit the "axle weights" and also your raise speeds will be more even when you raise both powered cylinders together..   ie front up will raise left and right together, whereas left up will raise the rear left first then front left due to less weight on the rear (assuming front engine)

ben

The BMW argument doesn't hold much water when you put 6 group 31's in the boot
I had to fit extra slow downs to stop the back end ripping off when i changed from F/R to S/S

[catboy]

ha ha!..  thats true, didn'nt even think about that; i guess you're better off with a merc then  
fd you can explain, im not at work again until monday  

[fatdaddy]

as with everything its a trade off.

to me the most visual move [assuming we are talking a road biased euro and not a hoopper] is really fast side2side, which you get with pumps side and side. this also makes the most of any chipping you have  as, with the rear locked up you have two pumps to the nose.
down side is takes a bit more time to set a driving position. [easiest way is lift all then drop each corner down to were you want it]

[Chops]

as with everything its a trade off.

to me the most visual move [assuming we are talking a road biased euro and not a hoopper] is really fast side2side, which you get with pumps side and side. this also makes the most of any chipping you have  as, with the rear locked up you have two pumps to the nose.
down side is takes a bit more time to set a driving position. [easiest way is lift all then drop each corner down to were you want it]

Completely agree, mine is set up side to side for all the reasons listed. I've got a half decent panic, a nice bit of chippin' and driving position is a piece of piss, one flick of all up and your good to go